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Amboseli would probably surprise most people as a destination for a first visit to Kenya but Panthera’s “Iconic Elephants of Amboseli” photographic workshop caught our eye as something a bit different for this family trip. The chance of witnessing big tuskers under the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro was certainly something unique but would the trip deliver as advertised?
Not only was it our first visit to Kenya, it was also our first time booking and travelling with Lance and Kirstin. From beginning to end, we can only praise their approachability, efficiency, prompt responses, attention to detail and willingness to go the extra mile for their guests. The personal notes left for us in our rooms were a lovely touch.
Last minute travel changes to avoid unrest in Nairobi and the resultant traffic issues meant we arrived in Amboseli a little later than planned. Not to worry, the change from road to air transfer was handled effectively and efficiently by Lance and Kirstin, and we had our first glimpse of Mount Kilimanjaro and the elephants in the marsh as we landed at the airstrip. With luggage safely stowed in the back of William’s (our local guide) vehicle, we hit the ground running with a couple of young lions amongst the reeds on the edge of a stream within striking distance of the airstrip. For a minute we thought we might get lucky as one of them took an interest in an egret by the water’s edge. It wasn’t to be, but it was a taste of what Amboseli would offer over the next few days - striking backdrops with birds and animals aplenty.
After a relaxing night at Ol Tukai Lodge we set out early to the lake to capture the flamingoes against the sunrise. The movement and colour, amidst the golden light, was spectacular, with all our party, whether shooting with a cellphone or a mirrorless camera, in awe as the magic of the new day dawned. A little further on we sat and enjoyed the herds of zebra and wildebeest under a very dramatic and moody sky as a hyena wandered past. There was word of a large lion pride nearby. Soon we spotted them crossing the plains in the distance and, after pausing to watch pelicans coming in to land, our patient wait paid off. We watched their interaction with a herd of wildebeest, before they made their way directly towards us as they headed into the thick cover of the marsh. What a morning, and all this before tucking into our breakfast boxes at Observation Hill surrounded by superb starlings, Fischer's sparrow-larks and yellow-necked francolins with views of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Elephants, the stars of Amboseli, were not to be out done by the lions, but their time would come in the afternoon drive as the herds made their way back from the swamps to the forests. Before then we had another lion sighting, after encountering our first Masai giraffes. One lioness was making the most of what was left of a wildebeest carcass, watched on by a lone hyena and a golden jackal. It wasn’t long before the pride, resting up in the grass, started to make their way back towards thicker cover. Lance and William made sure we were perfectly positioned to make the most of this photographic opportunity, and we all held our breath as the pride passed within metres of our vehicle.
Following lunch back at Ol Tukai our afternoon got off to a cracking start as we were “entertained” by a grey-headed kingfisher smashing its catch against a dead tree trunk. Moving on we spent time sitting with some elephants enjoying the delicious grass of the swamp, their huge size only truly apparent when they raised themselves out to cross the road. It was such a privilege to be in their presence, surrounded by their calming energy. As the afternoon light started to take on golden hues, we watched the elephant herds making their way to the forests, whether trying out new photographic techniques under Lance’s guidance, or just soaking up the awesome experience of witnessing these beautiful creatures moving across the plains. It was hard to imagine that this was just the end of our second day in Amboseli as we trundled back into the lodge after a day packed with fabulous sightings, but never rushed or hurried.
Anticipation was high the next morning as we hoped to see ‘Craig’, one of the last of the super tuskers traversing the region. Our hopes and expectations for the day were only piqued further as it began with a distant view of a lion pride trying its luck with a wildebeest herd as it moved through the plains below Kilimanjaro, which was again showing itself in all its splendour. Soon though, we had the privilege to see Craig and all else paled in comparison to our experience with this gentle giant. Lance and David, our Masai host for our visit with Craig, gave us the opportunity to be on foot. Wow, what a humbling, exciting and fun time we had taking low level images just a few metres in front of this magnificent elephant. David regularly moved us on to a new vantage point and one of the funniest moments of the trip, and we had many laughs, was running after David through the bush, holding our cameras and phones with Lance giggling as he thought his pants were falling down. Spending time in Craig’s presence was truly an experience we’ll never forget!
This marked the final day of a three-night stay at Ol Tukai where the animals are just metres away from the rooms. Elephants, hippos, buffaloes, zebras and all sorts of birds can be seen from the comfort of your veranda, and after dark we even got lucky enough to see a couple of white-tailed mongoose - but take care not to get too entranced by these small creatures, you might end up with wet feet in the swampy ground near the fence!
As our next two nights would be spent outside the park at Kibo Safari Lodge we took the opportunity once again to visit the lake at sunrise to watch the flamingoes and revel in the superb reflections of Mount Kilimanjaro. Later, after a brief glimpse of an oribi, we would enjoy breakfast next to a stream where pied kingfishers entertained us against the spectacular backdrop of the mountain. After breakfast, we sat with a herd of buffalo and then watched as elephants moved across the plains below Kilimanjaro. Lions made an appearance yet again, but the highlight of the day was seeing a small herd of lesser kudu. Vehicles quickly piled up, probably thinking we had a lion sighting. They were disappointed with our antelope sighting but we were very happy to find this uncommon kudu and add yet another new species to our lists. Our mammal and especially bird lists grew nicely in Amboseli.
Entering the park the next day we didn’t know what to expect with no plans set out, but Amboseli had been good to us each day and we were happy to wait and see. Just as we’d seen the elephants returning from the swamps to the forests at the end of the day, now we saw them making their way out of the forests under the watchful eye of the mountain, as fish eagles glided above. Before long, however, our attention was taken by a cat we’d hoped to see but knowing it would be a long shot - the cheetah. Seeing two cheetahs emerge from the grass was amazing, and Lance and William quickly made the decision to make our way round to another road, where we’d wait patiently in anticipation for the cheetah to again emerge out of the cover of the long grass. We were not to be disappointed! They came out right next to us and then treated us to a visual feast as they clambered up on a distant fallen tree in the early morning light. One more breathless moment, quickly followed by a marsh owl perched on a bush over the dry expanse of the plains, another lifer for us.
Our family holiday was coming to an end. The promise of witnessing big tuskers under the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro with birds and animals aplenty had truly been fulfilled and on our final morning we had an unforgettable experience watching a failed lion hunt, proving once again that patience pays off!
This trip was packed with wonderful sightings and beautiful scenery with Mount Kilimanjaro being very kind to us and showing up every day. Lance patiently and generously shared his photography knowledge and skills with us so we could take away the best images possible. We never felt rushed or hurried, had many laughs and throughout we felt relaxed with all our needs taken care of by Lance and William. Thank you Panthera Photo Safaris for making this trip such an astounding success!
